Fashion from 1930 to 1950
By: Ari Sanjabi
1930 to 1940:
Men: the end of the 1920s brought in "the English drape" in the masculine fit, a one-button single-breasted coat actually fell loosely over the chest. The baggy trousers had pleats at the waist, altogether a dramatic change and good-looking. By 1938 the style had been revised to the English paddock suit with a high front, two-buttoned closing. A popular shirt for casual wear wash the "gaucho" from Argentina. Initially made of flannel, it was soon developed in silk, cotton, and rayon, colors, both wild and neutral, with tails to be worn outside. High shoes worn in the early century disappeared. Patent leather shoes of tan or brown were worn in the fall and winter, while oxfords, laced or buttoned, were worn in the summer.

Women: this decade is filled with a wide range of fashions. There was a definite costume for each occasion, from sports spectator costumes, to formal evening wear. During the 1930s, the waistline went back to normal and a slightly boned corset rose higher under the bosom. The bosom was, once again, considered a feature of the feminine form, being pushed up by a brassiere, and posture was accentuated with chests thrown out and shoulders out. A new and rather popular style became the dinner suit, usually consisting of a jacket, skirt, and blouse of black silk, much like the masculine black tie outfit. A beach idea was incorporated into evening apparel with the "bare midriff." Modest females filled in the space with flesh-colored chiffon. Some fashion of the thirties proved most unflattering to the feminine silhouette. The first was fuchsia pink called "Shocking Pink" and the second was the broad, squared padded shoulders so disfiguring to the feminine form.

The hat was also very popular during the Thirties. Doll hats, caps, and nets were the most common styles. Another popular style change was from the sandal to the pump. A big change was the replacement of the Louis heel by the high, slim spike heel. 1940 to 1950
Men: the influence of battle dress was quite evident in this decade, with the exaggerated square physique which changed to more natural shoulders. Most suits were either a three-button, single-breasted, or double-breasted with trousers laid in pressed pleats at the waist.

During this period, the nylon shirt came upon the scene. Suits began to be made of lighter colors and combinations of colors. Tweed sports coats became the general tone of dress. Suburban casual dress became popular, with natural tan tones and jackets with slide fasteners of tan corduroy.

Scarves also became popular in the Forties. Many patterns were in brilliant, garish colors in silk, wool and synthetic fibers. However, there were also the clubs, stripes, and other designs. Another popular item was the Norwegian slipper, which was eventually tailored for city wear. A new style called the "flight boot" was based upon the boot of polo players.

Women: the trend of the Thirties toward a smaller waist, diaphragm control, and a rounded bosom remained constant in the Forties. The look of the "hour glass figure" continued to gain popularity. A girdle proved helpful in attaining this look by rising not more than a few inches above the waist and covering some space below, to cinch the waist.

Full skirts called for petticoats and several underskirts worn together. Another popular style was the "ballerina length" formal dress. Little hats, ranging from pillboxes, turbans, berets, to bowknots often accompanied these dresses. The shoes ranged from moccasin and sandal to the slim look of the spike heel and French pump.

African American Influence: there is still dispute over where the zoot suit fashion began. The style was favored in New York in Harlem by black teenagers. It consisted of a knee-length draped jacket with 6" shoulder pads, and an eye-catching tie. It also had a long dangling key chain, very high-waisted trousers that were fully and deeply pleated at the waist and generous in the leg but sharply tapered at the cuff. This look was completed with a long, greased hairstyle, combed back off the face, complemented by a broad-brimmed hat and pointed-toe shoes. Zoot suits were an extraordinary expression of rebellion against the sober garments of the 1940s. A zazou suit is a female version of the zoot suit, worn in the USA in the 1940s and 1950s. Zazou suits consisted of a jacket and tight skirt and was worn with high heels.

* (Such black musicians as Harold Fox and Miles Davis most likely inspired these fashions)